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Eyelet Selection & Installation Guide
Guide to choosing the right eyelets for shoes, boots and orthotic projects - and fitting them properly for long-lasting results.
Written for footwear repairers, podiatrists, workshop technicians and keen DIYers who want strong, reliable lacing hardware without the faff.
What is an Eyelet?
Eyelet - a small reinforced ring (metal or polymer) fitted into an upper, tongue or strap to guide laces and protect material from tearing. Often paired with a backing washer for strength - may be used alongside ski hooks for speed lacing on boots.
Why Eyelet Choice Matters
- Durability: Correct shank length and a snug hole stop pull-through and fraying.
- Comfort: Smooth, low-profile flanges keep lacing glide easy and reduce pressure points.
- Corrosion resistance: The right metal/finish avoids rust in wet or sweaty environments.
- Aesthetics & compliance: Consistent finish, size and spacing look professional and meet clinical or footwear standards.
How to Select the Right Eyelets
- Material & Finish
- Brass (plain or nickel/black plated): Great corrosion resistance; good all-rounder for shoes/boots.
- Stainless steel: Maximum durability for outdoor, work and clinical cleaning regimes.
- Aluminium / Polymer: Lightweight; suitable for sports footwear where weight is critical.
- Internal Diameter (ID)
Match to lace diameter. As a rule of thumb, choose an eyelet ID that is 0.5-1.0mm larger than the lace for smooth threading without slop. - Shank Length & Flange
Shank must pass through the material stack (upper + lining) with enough length to roll/flare cleanly. Use long shank variants or add washers for thick leather or multi-layer builds. - Back Reinforcement
Plain for thin fabrics/synthetics; washer-backed for leather, heavy canvas or high-tension zones (top rows, instep). - Use Case
- Casual shoes / orthoses: Low-profile round eyelets, smooth finish.
- Hiking / work boots: Heavy-duty metal eyelets + top-row ski hooks for quick lacing.
- Clinical devices: Small, precise IDs for controlled fit; corrosion-resistant finish.
Eyelets & Washers: Quick Comparison
| Type | Best For | Pros | Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brass (plated) | General footwear, orthoses | Corrosion-resistant, easy to set, many finishes | Plating can scuff if over-hammered |
| Stainless Steel | Outdoor/work boots, clinical cleaning | Maximum strength, rust resistance | Harder to roll - prefer a press over hand tools |
| Polymer | Sports, lightweight uppers | Lightweight, non-corrosive | Lower impact resistance than metal |
| Washer-Backed | Thick leather, high-tension rows | Excellent pull-through resistance | Extra parts and steps in assembly |
How to Install Eyelets (Step-by-Step)
A reliable, repeatable method for clean eyelet setting with hand tools or a bench press.
- Mark and Space
Lightly mark the eyelet line. Keep spacing consistent (commonly 15-25 mm centre-to-centre) and parallel to the shoe edge.
- Punch the Hole
Use a sharp punch matching the eyelet shank. The hole should be snug - too big and the eyelet won’t grip, too small and the upper may tear.
- Insert Eyelet
Push the eyelet from the outside of the upper inwards. Add a washer on the back if specified for your build.
- Set and Roll
Seat the parts in the correct dies. With a press, apply firm, even pressure. With a hand setter, use controlled strikes. The shank should flare and roll without cracking.
- Finish & Inspect
Check the flange sits flat, no sharp edges, no puckering. Thread a lace to confirm smooth glide.
Common Pitfalls (and Fixes)
- Hole too large: Use correct punch size; switch to washer-backed eyelets for grip.
- Over-hammering: Causes finish damage and distortion—use a press or lighter strikes.
- Misalignment: Use a template or fence on the press bed to keep spacing true.
- Wrong shank length: Choose longer shank for thick stacks to achieve a full roll.
When to Use Ski Hooks
For the top two or three rows on boots, ski hooks speed up on-off and let users fine-tune tension across the instep. Pair hooks with robust eyelets below for the best of both worlds: fast lacing and stable retention.
Eyelets: Frequently Asked Questions
What size eyelet should I use for my laces?
Choose an internal diameter 0.5–1.0 mm larger than your lace. If in doubt, test with a scrap - lacing should glide without rattling.
Do I always need a washer?
Not always. Washers are recommended for thick leather, multi-layer stacks or high-tension rows to prevent pull-through and improve longevity.
Brass vs stainless - what’s better?
Brass (often plated) is a versatile, corrosion-resistant choice with many finishes. Stainless is tougher and highly rust-resistant - ideal for work boots, outdoor use and frequent cleaning.
My eyelets are splitting when I set them - why?
Likely an oversized hole, incorrect dies, excessive force, or a shank that’s too short. Match punch to shank, use the correct dies and apply steady, even pressure.
Can I fit eyelets by hand or do I need a press?
Hand setters work for small jobs and repairs. For consistency, finish quality and speed - especially in clinics or workshops - a bench press with matched dies is the smarter choice.
Where should I switch from eyelets to ski hooks?
Typically the top two or three rows on boots use ski hooks for fast on/off and adjustable instep tension. Keep lower rows as eyelets for stable anchoring.
Note: This guide is educational. Always follow your device or footwear manufacturer’s specifications and safety instructions.
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